Weather and WNW swell to end the week

(I'm heading out of town from Oct. 11-16th so I'll be back bloggin' next Wed...unless I decide to post from the beach on my vacation...)

 

All sorts of activity going on as we swing from Summer to Fall and back again.  After a few nice SW swells it looks like Mother Nature is tossing us another small WNW groundswell.  You might have heard about the North Shores of the Hawaiian Islands the past few days (see Ocean Notes)…it was CRAN-KING!  The swell isn’t really directed at us but we’re still going to benefit from the leftovers.  We’re already seeing the buoys increasing.  Surf should pick up to waist/chest high for Thursday morning with some slightly better waves at the winter North facing beaches but expect some unfavorable weather to put a bit of bump overnight on the surface.  The swell will hold up through Fri, Sat and Sun with surf in the chest/shoulder range.  Weather and wind will be the biggest factor Fri and Sat. By Sun things should clean up and surf looks pretty nice.  The swell fades Monday with a little pick-me-up from some small SW. Surf in the waist/chest range but slightly better at summer beaches.  That’ll be a short and small swell but we’re expecting another medium NW groundswell for Tues of next week with size at west and north facing beaches back into the waist/chest range with some fun shoulder high sets.  Swell holds for Wed as the swell peaks with some nice chest/shoulder high surf.  Kinda quiet after that with what looks like some smaller NW and a small late SW swell developing. 

We’ve got our first weather maker coming to town tonight with moderate S winds tonight making things a little lumpy in the morning and for most of the day.   Looks like a nice window of light winds in the early hours of the day before winds pickup more out of the S.  Sustaining S winds for most of Thurs night and through Fri and pretty gusty for Sat.  And then we have the rain.  The latest models are actually looking more favorable with about a 0.25” along the coast for the day starting overnight and kind of just drizzling all day.  Definiletly some colder air temps (mid-60s) than we’ve had lately and snow…yes, snow levels to 7000’.  Showers should taper off by Friday dawn with some left over clouds  but then  expect sunshine for the windy Sat and a pretty gorgeous day Sunday and air temps back into the mid 70s.  Big high pressure brings sunshine and high 70s back to town for the first half of the week.  Still some cooler nights though to remind you that it’s Fall.  Some big tide swings as we approach Monday’s New Moon.  Look for fuller morning highs to slow things down a bit and negative lows to really drain out the beach breaks by Sunday.  Water temps still in the low 70s/high 60s.  Expect that to cool down with the NW swells that are moving in.  Yup, time for a full suit!

Looking like some fun surf if you can find a nice window between wind and rain but better conditions for the second half of the weekend.  Surf Sunday…Charger’s aren’t on til Monday!

I’m outta here for warm water, fun waves and a mai tai or two!

Alooooooooooooha!

Mish

Ocean Notes:

1)       One word: PEAHI! (translation: JAWS!)  This is some of the most gorgeous and perfect HUGE surf I've ever seen!  The video will leave you in awe!  Watch Shane Dorian rock the house with a mammoth sized barrel yesterday.

2)      With the rainy season upon I’ll remind everyone not to surf in poo!  This storm will be the FIRST FLUSH.  Yes, it’s as bad as it sounds.  Check out Coast Keeper’s County Beach Status website.  And watch the water around Ponto.  9000 gallons of sewage spilled there two days ago…POOPY WATER!!!!!!!!! That’s just gonna get flushed out even more as it rains.  Be mindful!

3)      The newest high profile surf flick to hit the theaters later this month is getting some pretty good reviews. Check out the trailer for Chasing Mavericks , the story of Jay Moriarty and his passion for a well know deadly surf spot.

4)      And to end the Ocean Notes let’s just take a nice look back at some fun clean California October sessions.

Tides for La Jolla (Scripps Institution Wharf) starting with October 11, 2012.

www.saltwatertiedes.com

Day        High      Tide  Height   Sunrise    Moon  Time      % Moon

           /Low      Time    Feet    Sunset                    Visible

Th  11      Low  12:44 AM     0.6   6:51 AM    Rise  2:46 AM      25

    11     High   7:16 AM     4.7   6:20 PM     Set  3:49 PM

    11      Low   1:03 PM     1.6

    11     High   7:02 PM     4.9

F   12      Low   1:18 AM     0.5   6:52 AM    Rise  3:48 AM      16

    12     High   7:42 AM     5.2   6:19 PM     Set  4:25 PM

    12      Low   1:43 PM     0.9

    12     High   7:47 PM     5.1

Sa  13      Low   1:50 AM     0.5   6:52 AM    Rise  4:52 AM      9

    13     High   8:10 AM     5.6   6:18 PM     Set  5:01 PM

    13      Low   2:24 PM     0.2

    13     High   8:32 PM     5.2

Su  14      Low   2:23 AM     0.6   6:53 AM    Rise  5:58 AM      3

    14     High   8:41 AM     6.1   6:17 PM     Set  5:40 PM

    14      Low   3:05 PM    -0.3

    14     High   9:17 PM     5.1

M   15      Low   2:57 AM     0.8   6:54 AM    Rise  7:06 AM      0

    15     High   9:14 AM     6.4   6:15 PM     Set  6:23 PM

    15      Low   3:49 PM    -0.7

    15     High  10:04 PM     4.9

Tu  16      Low   3:32 AM     1.1   6:55 AM    Rise  8:16 AM      0

    16     High   9:51 AM     6.5   6:14 PM     Set  7:10 PM

    16      Low   4:36 PM    -0.9

    16     High  10:54 PM     4.5

W   17      Low   4:09 AM     1.4   6:55 AM    Rise  9:25 AM      2

    17     High  10:30 AM     6.5   6:13 PM     Set  8:03 PM

    17      Low   5:26 PM    -0.8

    17     High  11:50 PM     4.1